Iranians love to go to the cinema, where you'll find everything from international movies (nothing controversial when it comes to subject matter or dress codes) dubbed into Farsi to the latest film by Iran's brilliant art-house directors. Football matches (men-only) and even classical music concerts in Tehran are other possibilities. But the real highlight is Zurkhaneh (literally 'house of strength'), a uniquely Iranian form that incorporates sport, religion and theatre in a shrine-like gym setting – utterly unforgettable.